Saigon / Ho Chi Minh Stadt


Saigon oder Ho Chi Minh Stadt?



In der westlichen Welt fragt man sich hin und wieder, wie denn die korrekte Bezeichnung der Stadt ist. Dafür gibt es eine recht einfache Erklärung: Saigon besteht nur aus den ersten 5 Distrikten von Ho Chi Minh Stadt. Die Vietnamesen nehmen in der Schriftsprache immer Bezug auf Ho Chi Minh Stadt, in der Umgangssprache wird in aller Regel der Name "Saigon" verwendet.

Geographische Lage



Die Stadt liegt etwas nördlich des Mekong-Deltas auf dem Westufer des Saigon-Flusses und liegt durchschnittlich 19 Meter über dem Meeresspiegel. Die Entfernung zum Südchinesischen Meer beträgt rund 40 Kilometer. Das administrative Stadtgebiet hat eine Ausdehnung von 2.095 Quadratkilometern.

Die Distanz vom nördlichsten Teil (Dorf Phu My Hung, Bezirk Cu Chi) zum südlichsten Teil des Stadtgebietes (Dorf Long Hoa, Bezirk Can Gio) beträgt 120 Kilometer, vom östlichsten Teil (Stadtteil Long Binh, Bezirk 9) zum westlichsten Teil (Dorf Binh Chanh, Bezirk Binh Chanh) 46 Kilometer.

Erste Eindrücke



Nach der Landung und dem unvermeidlichen Hitzeschock nach gut 20 Stunden in klimatisierten Räumen fiel als erstes eine gewisse Hektik ins Auge. Bereits am Ausgang des Flughafens waren jede Menge Vietnamesen vertreten und begrüßten die Ankommenden. Daher war es nicht einfach, den Reiseleiter zu entdecken.
Die nächste Überraschung zeigte der Verkehr: Während Ho Chi Minh Stadt 8 Millionen Einwohner hat, gibt es dort 6 Millionen zugelassene Mopeds, in der Landessprache einfach "Honda" genannt. Hier wurde eine Marke zum Begriff, ähnlich wie in Deutschland "Tempo" als Synonym für "Papiertaschentuch" steht.



Da es keine geregelten Fußgängerüberwege gibt, gestaltet sich die Überquerung einer stärker befahrenen Straße als Erlebnis. Im Prinzip gibt es aber eine einfache Regel: Langsam und gleichmäßig die Straße überqueren, der Strom an Motorräder sucht sich einfach einen Weg um die Fußgänger herum. Am Anfang vielleicht etwas ungewohnt, sollte man sich an einen Einheimischen anhängen. Nach kurzer Zeit fällt das Überqueren aber leicht, wenn auch immer ein gewisser Nervenkitzel erhalten bleibt.

Das Leben auf der Straße



Wie man recht schnell feststellen kann, findet das Leben in Saigon auch auf der Straße statt - zusammen mit dem eigenen Roller.





Da viele Vietnamesen selbstständig tätig sind, wird auch auf der Straße viel verkauft, man kann hier die verschiedensten Waren erstehen. Von der einfachen Obstverkäuferin bis hin zu den Alltagsgegenständen, fast jedes Gebäude hat einen kleinen Laden im Erdgeschoss.



Da wir am "Tag der Frau" in Saigon waren, wurde auch bereits am frühen Morgen damit begonnen, an allen Ecken Blumen zu verkaufen.





Die Fahrt zu einem Begräbnis erfolgt in einem sogenannten Pagodenwagen, diese sind reich verziert:


Vermummte Frauen?



Was einem auch ins Auge fällt, wenn man tagsüber ankommt, ist, dass sich die Frauen mehr oder weniger komplett bedecken. Dies fängt bei langen Hosen an, geht über lange Handschuhe bis hin zum Mundschutz, der nicht nur gegen die allgegenwärtigen Abgase hilft. Vor allem dient dies alles dem Schutz vor der Sonne, das Schönheitsideal in Vietnam ist nämlich helle Haut - im Gegensatz zu Europa stehen auch Hautaufheller in den Verkaufsregalen. Am frühen Morgen oder nach Sonnenuntergang kleidet man sich aber "normal":



Privates in Saigon


Friseur


Als eine der ersten Maßnahmen in Vietnam mussten Patricks Haare modisch aufgepeppt werden, sonst hätte sich vielleich noch ein kleines Tier darin eingenistet. Also führte der Weg zu einem ortsansässigen Friseur, der sich darum beflissentlich kümmerte.



Nach gut 45 Minuten, ca. 1,30 Euro ärmer und ein bisschen leichter durch den reichlich geflossenen Schweiß auf beiden Seiten, konnte sich das Ergebnis doch sehen lassen und man war für den Rest des Urlaubs gerüstet.



Postkarten



Da es in Vietnam weder an jeder Ecke einen Briefkasten noch die Möglichkeit, Briefmarken zu kaufen gibt, haben wir im Rahmen der Besichtigung des Postamtes in Saigon (siehe unten) einen Einkauf an Postkarten und Briefmarken gewagt. An den touristisch erschlossenen Gebieten gibt es auch an den Sehenswürdigkeiten Postkarten zu kaufen, diese werden einem sogar hin und wieder in nahezu nervender Weise von Straßenverkäuferinnen aufgedrängt. Im Rahmen der Ungewissheit des Abschickens, haben wir unsere Sammlung an einem Abend geschrieben und sie über die Rezeption des Hotels Dai Nam versenden lassen. Dies hat wunderbar geklappt, ebenso wie später in Mui Ne. Die Laufzeit der Postkarten nach Deutschland betrug zwischen einer und anderthalb Wochen, das Porto betrug 8000 Dong, was etwa 30 Cent entspricht.

Unsere Sammlung an Postkarten:


Damit einem beim Schreiben der Kopf nicht platzt, sollte man einen Helm tragen. In diesem Fall mittels einer Duschhaube, die in jedem Badezimmer in den Hotels auslag


Essen in Saigon


In Saigon kann man wie überall im Land die sehr gute einheimische Küche geniesen. Im Vergleich zum Land ist es in der Stadt vergleichsweise teuer, aber es kommt lange nicht an deutsche Preise heran. Mit 3-4 Euro für eine Mahlzeit kann man aber dennoch rechnen, natürlich abhängig von dem, was man verzehrt. Falls es einem mehr nach westlichen Genüssen gelüstet, kann man auch hier entsprechende Lokalitäten finden - aber für so etwas macht man ja eigentlich keine Reise ins Ausland.
Eine kleine Ausnahme haben wir für die japanische Burgerkette "Lotteria" gemacht, wir wollten einmal diese Version des Fastfood testen. Und geschmacklich müssen sie sich nicht verstecken.
Mein persönlicher Tip ist der Barbecue Garden (Quan Nuong, Internetseite), hier bekommt man sein Fleisch roh am Tisch serviert und kann es selbst über dem in der Mitte desselbigen angebrachten Gasgrill zubereiten. Problematisch für mich war eher, dass zum Essen nur Stäbchen gereicht wurden - aber mit etwas Übung war das Essen damit sehr angenehm. In vielen anderen Restaurants hat man aber die Wahl zwischen Stäbchen sowie dem Essen mit Messer und Gabel.
Seltsamerweise konnte man in keinem der größeren Restaurants einen Schnaps zur Verdauung bekommen, zumindest war dieser auf keiner Speisekarte auffindbar. Auf Englisch lies sich keiner bestellen - und unsere Kenntnisse der vietnamesischen Sprache waren doch eher karg.

Am zweiten Tag war eine Stadtrundfahrt geplant - hier fand auch der erste Kontakt mit dem Durchfall statt, der ausländische Beauftragte für das Durchfallverbot hatte wohl gepennt. Nur der Bimbelsche Saumagen lies sich in Ho Chi Minh Stadt noch durch nichts beirren..

Besuchte Sehenswürdigkeiten in Saigon



Pagoden



Den Pagoden wird ein eigener Artikel gewidmet: Pagoden in Vietnam.

Kathedrale Notre Dame



Die zwischen 1877 und 1883 aus Backstein errichtete neoromanische Kathedrale Notre-Dame ist eines der bedeutendsten Kolonialgebäude der Stadt und das Zentrum der katholischen Kirche in Südvietnam. Notre-Dame befindet sich am Nordende von Dong Khoi. Jeden Sonntag werden Messen in englischer Sprache gehalten. Auf dem davor liegenden Platz der Pariser Kommune steht eine Statue der Jungfrau Maria. Diese Kirche wird auch Notre-Dame des Ostens genannt.











Hauptpostamt



Gegenüber der Kathedrale an der Dong Khoi liegt das das zwischen 1886 und 1891 errichtete Hauptpostamt. Abgesehen von einer Renovierung und Modernisierung der Schalter erfolgten seit der Entstehung fast keine Änderungen. Die Stahlkonstruktion des Gebäudes wurde vom französischen Ingenieur Gustave Eiffel entworfen. Von einem riesigen Gemälde in der Halle aus wacht Ho Chi Minh über die Arbeit der Postangestellten. Vordem Gebäude befinden sich zwei Statuen, die an den Sieg über die Besatzungsmächte Japan, Frankreich und USA erinnern.











Cholon


Cholon, der 5. Bezirk (Quan 5), ist das Chinatown von Ho-Chi-Minh-Stadt. Ursprünglich war Cholon – zu deutsch großer Markt – eine Stadt für sich selbst, ist jedoch vor allem durch den hohen Zuzug von Flüchtlingen mit dem früheren Saigon verschmolzen. Sie wird von einer halben Million ethnischer Chinesen bewohnt, die durch ihre chinesischen Apotheken, Restaurants und Geschäfte das Viertel dominieren. Getreu dem Namen ist Cholon auch der Bezirk mit der meisten geschäftlichen Aktivität. Die Vorfahren der Bewohner sind aus verschiedenen Regionen Südchinas nach Vietnam eingewandert und haben ihre Dialekte und Sitten behalten. Es gibt eigene Tempel für die Leute, die aus Chaozhou abstammen, und eigene Tempel für jene aus Guangzhou.

Um die Jahrhundertwende war Cholon auch ein verruchtes Vergnügungsviertel, wo der Konsum von Opium nur eines der angebotenen Vergnügen war. Der britische Schriftsteller Graham Greene war unter den Besuchern. Seit den 1950er Jahren waren die verstopften Straßen Cholons ein ideales Versteck für Viet Minh und später die NLF, während nach der Wiedervereinigung mit Nordvietnam und speziell während des Krieges mit der Volksrepublik China 1979 die Chinesen einen großen Anteil der Boat People ausmachten.

Der große Markt ist sehr dominant und versorgt die ganze Stadt mit Waren, er ist mit einem deutschen Großhandel vergleichbar.



Verschiedene Reissorten


Auch im Kleinen wird in Vietnam immer wieder ein Schrein gebaut, hier aus wenigen Früchten mit Räucherstäbchen


Auch während der Arbeitszeit sitzen die Vietnamesen gerne und warten auf Kundschaft


Fisch. Aufgrund des niedrigen Preises nach Reis wohl das beliebteste Nahrungsmittel in der Nähe der Küste. Patrick und ich sind den Außenbordkameraden mit schöner Regelmäßigkeit ferngeblieben und


haben uns eher dem Genuss von richtigem Fleisch gewidmet. Pork (Schwein) und Beef (Rind) sind dann doch besser.


Die ganze Familie wird in den Verkauf eingebunden


Obst ist in Vietnam auch sehr beliebt und fast überall frisch zu bekommen


Nach dem Einkauf erfolgt der Transport der Ware auf dem Roller. Hier gibt es die abenteuerlichsten Konstruktionen. Selbst eine Waschmaschine oder mehrere Computermonitore finden so den Weg nach Hause.




Hin und wieder trifft man natürlich auch auf eher ungewünschte Besucher wie diese tote Ratte. Sie passt aber bestimmt gut zu Reisschnaps!



Kriegsmuseum



Das Kriegsmuseum ist in einem eigenen Artikel zusammen mit dem Tunnelsystem von Cu Chi untergebracht: Kriegsmuseum in Saigon und Cu Chi Tunnelsystem. Hier passt es thematisch besser.

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